FOR all its amazing modern skyline, perhaps the real jewels of Shanghai can be found at street level, away from the hustle and bustle in the captivating back alleys, writes Nancy Zhang
One of the most charming things to do in Shanghai is to explore the backstreets, either on foot or by bike. The narrow lanes behind the main streets offer a unique glimpse into local life.
Featuring both post-1949 buildings and early last century architecture that mixes Chinese and Western styles, these alleyway communities have housed generations of ordinary lives.
As autumn draws to a close, now is the perfect time to investigate.
Old Town
The area has the oldest type of alleyways you’ll find in Shanghai. The small area around Yuyuan Garden existed before foreigners arrived in the mid-1800s.
The sense of local life here is also strongest, but you have to leave the touristy Yuyuan complex behind. Follow Shanghai Old Street in the direction of the Bund, passing Yuyuan Garden on the left and the new shopping mall on the right.
In front is the heart of the Old Town which, though now filled with tourist shops, has some hidden treasures. One of these is Sipailou Street which is filled with local snacks and meals of every variety imaginable. It’s cheaper and more authentic than inside Yuyuan.
Turn down any of the side streets to start an adventure into old Shanghai. Alleys such as Danfeng Road and Mayuan Street offer rich rewards. Though lacking many amenities, people still live here, going about their lives, brushing their teeth, hanging up laundry, chatting and chopping vegetables for dinner.
Warning: Toilets are outdoors and it can be smelly, so don’t wear your best shoes. The very narrow streets are best explored on foot.
Disappearing lifestyle
The Bund is home to magnificent Western-style architecture, but in areas closer to the Old Town there are unique alleyways housing local life.
Often adapted to the fishing industry, this lifestyle is disappearing.
From Dongmen Road walk toward the Bund and turn down Waixiangua Road, a little street on the right. Literally translated as “salty melon street,” rumor has it the name came from people selling wares from the sea.
Sea products are still sold here, with seaweed spread out to dry on the street, and fish nets spread out to dry on the balconies. But customers are few and far between.
Behind Waixiangua Road are sizable pockets of old-style communal alleyways. These are in the process of being demolished and most residents have moved out.
But the buildings are still standing, albeit in eerie silence. It’s a great place to explore early-style shikumen (stone-gated) houses.
Behind neon lights
The glitzy lights of Nanjing Road Pedestrian Mall belie its proximity to humbler parts of town. But there are interesting side streets to be found if you dig, like Shitan Lane which starts on Beijing Road E.
Opposite the intersection between Beijing Road E. and Fujian Road M., the tiny lane offers a wealth of local life and a surprise at the end. Unlike lilong - residential compounds built by foreigners for Chinese from the mid-1800s onwards - the buildings here were built after liberation.
Winding between low-rise apartments, the street contains tiny restaurants, people playing mahjong, selling wares and patches, and extensive bamboo scaffolding.
At the end you’ll find a treat - the Hong Miao Gallery, a free art gallery that used to be an ancient temple. With bright red walls, its heyday was in the 1930s. After 1949 it went through a series of uses from being sealed for 10 years to a local administrative center.
After enjoying the quietness of the gallery step back into modern Shanghai as Nanjing Road E. is just on the other side.
Beijing Road is now a bustling area selling electronic parts, but it contains pockets of early-style lilong built around 1900. Crowded and extremely narrow, these are very much still lived in and well preserved. Look for No. 756 and No. 803 on Beijing Road.
Sharp contrasts
Downtown Shanghai is dotted with alleyways of Western-style garden villas and other turn-of-the-century architecture. Luxurious and built to a high standard, these residences are easier to preserve.
But as all property was divided in the 1950s to provide housing for the poor, today these villas house several families and have been worn down over the decades. The contrast between the building and its residents is characteristic of Shanghai.
Shaanxi Road S. has many side streets in the stretch between Huaihai and Changle roads which offer great examples of garden villas. Large, detached and semi-detached houses show off the Western architectural influence.
A 20-minute walk from Shaanxi Road S. is Nanjing Road W. Opposite gleaming modern malls such as Citic Square, lanes lead to handsome old apartment blocks in classical Western style. Lanes No. 1113 and No. 1025 are good examples.
Be sure to explore behind Nanjing Road W. along streets such as Weihai Road and Shimen No. 1 Road for more 20th-century apartment blocks in different styles.
Further away, Hengshan and Yongjia roads have Spanish-and Mediterranean-style villas. Also built before 1949, these variations on the Western classical style display ever more opulent tastes in the rich of old Shanghai.
More backstreets
Zhoushan Road: At the heart of the Jewish ghetto of the first half of 20th-century Shanghai, the road has been dubbed “Little Vienna” as it is flanked by Viennese-Jewish buildings.
Kunming Road: Home to flower markets set up by local farmers. Also has the Xiahai Temple where people used to come to worship the Goddess of the Sea.
Kele Road: A backstreet behind the Shanghai Zoo, it contains a catholic church designed by Ladiszlo Hudec with an innovative Byzantine roof.
Jinxian Road: A street full of antique shops, little boutiques and old restaurants.
More lilong (old neighborhoods)
Cite Bourgogne, corner of Shaanxi Road S. and Jianguo Road W. (built in 1930)
Garden Villas, 852 Julu Road (built in 1930)
Clements Court, 1363 Fuxing Road M. (built in 1929)
506 Jianguo Road W. (built in 1941)
45 Taiyuan Road (built in 1936, Spanish-style lilong)